A guide to Hawaiian Lei: culture, construction, & materials
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When working with couples and family through ceremony, the topic of lei naturally arises when speaking of Hawaiian traditions. In Hawaiʻi, a lei is not always just a decoration but a representation of intention made visible. They can serve as a gesture of welcome, celebration, sacrament, or recognition. Indeed, the Hawaiian proverb goes, "He lei poina ʻole ke keiki," translated to, "A beloved child is a lei never forgotten". While flowers are the most commercially known materials of lei, they can be made from a variety of other materials including sturdy leaves, colorful nuts and seeds, patterned shells, feathers, vines, or even hair and bone.
Cultural context
Lei are found all across polynesia, but as Hawaiian culture evolved from the settlement in the early 1000s, they developed a unique relationship with lei. In ancient Hawaii, lei were primarily used for religious rituals, offerings, and connection to akua (gods). Many lei were made from plants known as kino lau — literally “body-forms” of deities (akua). By using those plants in lei and placing them on an altar (ahu), Hawaiians would dedicate sacrament to certain gods and goddess. The presence of those kinolau lei on the altar honored the gods and invoked their presence. Wearing a lei made of a deity’s kinolau allowed Hawaiians “to touch their gods in a literal sense and be touched by them.” These lei could be worn to show gratitude, to seek inspiration or enlightenment from that deity.
Lei specifically worn during hula are carefully chosen to reflect the story (mele or moʻolelo) being told, the location, the landscape, or the gods involved. Materials often came from native plants, especially kinolau relevant to the hula’s subject matter. For example, palapalai fern is a favorite of the hula goddess Laka, often being integrated in lei during hula performance. In this way, the dancer becomes a living manifestation, a conduit of spiritual presence.
Lastly, certain lei marked social status: for example, some lei made from rare or precious materials (feathers, shells, bones, hair) were reserved for aliʻi (chiefs) or high-ranking individuals. Some lei served as symbols of peace or alliance. For example, a lei made of the vine Maile was traditionally used to formalize peace between opposing chiefs; weaving or exchanging a maile lei could seal a truce. Lei were also used to honor individuals: as gifts that were given (not thrown or placed forcibly) with reverence and intention.
While some lei were reserved for sacred or high-status uses in ancient Hawaii, many lei are simply part of everyday adornment that are worn by commoners (makaʻāinana) and chiefs alike. As life and culture evolved in Hawaii, lei continued to be given and used at celebrations, gatherings, funerals, births, weddings, farewells to mark transitions and honor relationships. Indeed May day festivals, Lei competitions, and Hawaii Tourism Boards use of Lei are an integral celebrations to Hawaii. Today adorning yourself in lei is simply a practice of celebrating a beautiful component of Hawaiian culture. So get out there, collect material respectfully, and E Lei!
Lei Styles: The Different Ways We Weave Aloha
Lei styles are based on the weaving pattern used to construct and hold foliage into place. Below I provide a simple guide to common Hawaiian lei terminology to understand how they are constructed
Hilo (Twist) Lei: A simple, elegant twist made from two strands, often ti/kī leaf, ulu flower, or fern
Kui (Stringing) Lei: The classic “threaded” lei made by piercing flowers or leaves and stringing them in a line.
Haku (Braided) Lei: A lei made using braiding or binding techniques. This is often misused as the term to describe lei worn on head. Lei worn on head are simply called lei poʻo. The Hawaiian word for head is poʻo.
Hili (Braided) Lei: Plant materials wrapped around a central cord with meticulous binding. A lei style often used for constructing lei poʻo due to its simplicity and ease of construction.
Wili (Wrapping) Lei: Plant materials wrapped around a central cord with meticulous binding. A lei style often used for constructing lei poʻo due to its simplicity and ease of construction.
Hīpuʻu/Kīpuʻu (Knot) Lei: Lei hīpuʻu are often made with lau kukui, the leaves of the kukui tree due to their long flexible stems that you can tie into knots. By creating a daisy chain of knotted stems you can form the chain of lau kukui that will make up your lei.
Humupapa (Sewn) Lei: Plant materials wrapped around a central cord with meticulous binding. A lei style often used for constructing lei poʻo due to its simplicity and ease of construction.
Lei Poʻo (Head) - ʻĀʻi (Neck) – Kupeʻe (Wrist, Ankle, or Upper Arm): Lei can also be categorized based on where they are worn on the body.
Lei Poʻo (Head Lei)
Lei ʻĀʻī (Neck Lei)
Lei Kupeʻe (Wrist, Ankle, or Upper Arm Lei)
Lei Materials: Plants, Flowers, and Their Meanings
Today there are many common lei materials that are used. Below are the some flowers that are most commonly found in lei and their meaning/use if any.
Native/Endemic: Plants that evolved in Hawaiʻi and carry deep cultural significance.
Maile – One of the oldest and most cherished lei materials. Soft, fragrant, and associated with peace agreements, love, and hula. Considered a kinolau (body form) of several akua including Laka and Kapo.
ʻIlima – Delicate, thin orange-gold blossoms. A single strand can have hundreds of blossoms due to their fragility.
Palapalai – A favorite hula fern strongly associated with Laka and hula protocol. Often used in lei poʻo and kupeʻe for dancers.
Lauki/Laukahi – Broad-leafed greens used for volume, contrast, or symbolic grounding.
Lehua (ʻŌhiʻa lehua) – Red, yellow, or multicolored flowers tied to the moʻolelo of Pele and Hiʻiaka.
Koali – Twining vines symbolize continuity, relationship, and connection.
Hala – Orange or red keys from the hala fruit used for sturdy lei.
Polynesian introduced
Brought by early Polynesian voyagers and deeply integrated into ceremony and everyday life.
Kukui – Seeds or nuts strung together; sometimes polished to a glossy shine.
Ti/Kī (Green or Red) – Lau kī, or lāʻī, ti leaf, is often incorporated into lei due to it being readily available and culturally possessing cleansing and healing properties associated with safety and purity.
Ulu (Breadfruit) – yellow withered flowers that become leather like and are used in traditional hilo lei, associated with growth and abundance.
Recently introduced plants
These plants became popular during the plantation era and into the modern tourism period.
Pikake (Arabian Jasmine) – Small white blossoms with a rich, romantic fragrance.
Tuberose – A sweet, full scent, often used with roses or orchid.
Plumeria – Vibrant and common across the islands, soft with a sweet scent.
Orchid: Durable, elegant, long-lasting blooms.
Crown Flower (Pua Kalaunu) – Five-pointed blossoms, a favorite of Queen Liliʻuokalani.
Perfume Flower (Puakenikeni)
The Heart of Lei
In ceremony, a lei becomes a way to bind what words cannot fully hold. It embodies the connection between people, the presence of ʻāina, and the sacredness of the moment. When you give or receive a lei, recognize the mo‘olelo carried in its materials and design. Honor the ancestors who passed down this tradition, and mahalo those who continue to weave its deeper meaning of aloha into the present. Whether fragrant or simple, leafy or ornate, a lei is always a gesture of aloha made visible.
